South by North East

I have been reading Anjum Hasan’s Lunatic in my Head on and off for a month now. It’s a novel based in and about Shillong. It reminds me of all the hilly/mountainous things in my life. Like the fact that I have never lived in the mountains or that I have never traveled east of Calcutta. But I do have one connection to the North East – a friend from ninth grade.

Back then in the late 80’s and early 90’s, Chinese meant food, not ethnicity. And North Easterners were a rarity in the city. The few that were there were mostly ignored unless absolutely necessary. Like when you needed a haircut or “international” food. Chinese being the height of international cuisine back then. The beauty parlors and Chinese restaurants were their special haunt. Not just because they were good at it, but there were very few other avenues open to them. They were invisible much like South by North East, a direction that doesn’t exist. It speaks so much of our insularity as a society.

A few years later, this situation changed. The deadly combination of insurgency and lack of opportunity pushed many of them out of their homes. And some of them even left their beautiful lush mountains and came to the coconut plains.

As far as I know, my North Eastern friend was here because her mom had made a choice. To marry a South Indian. She was the most exotic looking girl of our class. Her name was Elizabeth Syiem. For some reason, we never shortened it to Liz, Eliza, or Lizzy. She was always Elizabeth. Following the matrilineal tradition, she took her mother’s surname Syiem. We were never sure how to pronounce that. One more reason to stick to calling her Elizabeth.

Her physical features were a study in contrast. From afar, she looked just like the women from the North East: petite with high-cheek bones, mongoloid eyes, straight hair, narrow hips, and an air of the mountains about her. (That air I am sure was inherited because she was very much brought up here in Madras.) Once you go closer, you’d realize that something was amiss. Something was not quite right. She was not the girl from the North East. Not completely at least. Her skin was the color of the woman in Van Gogh’s The Potato Eaters. Very definitely not North East. Because of her exoticness, she often attracted the attention of the older boys not the boys of our class.

I can still remember her voice; quite unlike anything I’d heard. A voice with an incomplete twang. As if she had swallowed something by accident and that had stayed there, contributing to every sound she made. Maybe Shillong was stuck in her throat.

The air of the mountains couldn’t stay too close to the sea. We lost touch after High School. In a city this big, it was so easy to lose things – friends, memories, hopes, desires, ambitions, ourselves.

I remember the first time that she had told us that she was from Shillong. I had asked her, “Meghalaya?” as if to reassure myself that it was still a part of the recognizable world. She nodded a yes. The land of the clouds. A hazy-around-the-edges map of India sketched itself in my head. I zoomed into North North East of Calcutta. That little oval-ish state above graceful arch of Bangladesh. That was far. So far beyond my imagination that I had nothing to say. Maybe it was a land beyond both speech and clouds.



7 thoughts on “South by North East

  1. Well I would be more than glad to say hello to you from Shillong. Born and brought up in Shillong and totally biased about that place.. In fact I dont like to think that there is anything better than that.. hahaha !! Been in the south for more than a decade but my heart still belongs there.. 🙂

    And its a land very much within your reach.. 🙂
    and this is just for your reference.. not many photos.. we did not have time..

    Shillong Wards Lake
  2. lovely post. i love how y have described the shillong of yr mind.

    “and an air of the mountains about her”….i’d like to believe all of us from the north east of india have that 🙂

    pallavi – thanks for sending me the link to this post.

  3. Hello Pallavi and Aqua, thanks for dropping by!

    Pallavi: I have only heard of Shillong so long. Definitely plan to visit it sometime soon. The images are lovely! Thanks so much for the link.

    Aqua: Thank you so much! Yes, this is the Shillong inside my head, Now I need to head off to the mountains to see how exactly the whole place is! 🙂 Of course, you guys have that air about you!

    Now a question for the both of you: any idea where I can get a baku? I used to wear one as a kid but of late I haven’t seen anyone wear it.

  4. I think Aqua can help you but the nearest I can tell you where I thought I found really good Bakus are in kodaikanal. They have this Tibetian shop near the bustand who sells the most beautiful silk and non silk bakus I have seen. 🙂

    Also I am sure if you browse in the tibetian shops you could get a lead.. 🙂 where to get that locally.

    Again Aqua is the gal to answer this question.. 🙂

  5. Hi…stumbled on your page by chance today and was pleasantly suprised!!! Really neat!!! Love your style of writing…and man am I inspired!!!

    Hope you are doing fine? Its been years since we last met and its would be really nice to catch up…

  6. Heyy Elizabeth,

    Welcome to South of the Border! I’m glad you like it. Just some memories of school transmogrified by time.

    I’m fine but I’m sure you have no idea who I am. So we will take this offline. 🙂

Let me know what you think.

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s